Textiles+-+Fabric+printing+&+dying+processes

toc media type="custom" key="23493482" =Introduction to Printing textiles = Colour is an important tool in textiles and is key to any promotion of textile products. Designers need to be very aware of the different dyes, fibres and fabrics and the complex processes involved in adding colour. Colour can be added in many different ways, and most of the processes in which colour can be added listed below have been around for a very long time (2100 BC): Adding a surface pattern involves applying a pattern to the surface of the fabric using dyes. Printed fabrics created in this way can be used for clothing, home furnishings, and decorative wall hangings. The following surface pattern methods care all carried out at a commercial level however many of these methods are still very labour intensive. Technological advances in colour and printing applications are also changing techniques and methods used for applying colour. Sustainable issues are also a key factor as dying techniques and the print industry must reduce the impact on the environment and review its water usage and wastage. Read the following article from August 17th 2015 Fast Fashion Is the Second Dirtiest Industry in the World, Next to Big Oil
 * Printing & Dyeing textiles **
 * to the fibre before it is spun into yarn
 * to the yarn before it is woven or knitted
 * to the garment or the fabric when in its greige state (unfinished; not fully processed; neither bleached nor dyed fabric)

=Block printin g = This process of printing is produced by creating a pattern relief in rubber, polystyrene, lino and mounted onto a wooden block, they can even be made out of erasers or vegetables! The block is coated in a colourant usually fabric paint, and then stamped onto the fabric. Wood bock prints are still produced today in small craft industries around the world. The quality of the fabric is dependant on the skill of the printer, as each block must have the same even amount of apint applied before being stamped with the same amount of pressure and in the correct position. media type="custom" key="27811847" media type="custom" key="27811839"

=Screen printing = Screen printing consists of three elements: the screen which is the image carrier; the squeegee; and ink. The screen printing process uses a porous mesh stretched tightly over a frame made of wood or metal. Proper tension is essential to accurate color registration. The mesh is made of porous fabric or stainless steel mesh. A stencil is produced on the screen either manually or photochemically. The stencil defines the image to be printed in other printing technologies this would be referred to as the image plate. Screen printing ink is applied to the substrate by placing the screen over the material. Ink with a paint-like consistency is placed onto the top of the screen. Ink is then forced through the fine mesh openings using a squeegee that is drawn across the scree, applying pressure thereby forcing the ink through the open areas of the screen. Ink will pass through only in areas where no stencil is applied, thus forming an image on the printing substrate. The diameter of the threads and the thread count of the mesh will determine how much ink is deposited onto the substrates. (printprocesses/screen) Examples of **flat screen printing**, a different screen is required for each colour, and can be used for any type of fabric. media type="custom" key="27811653"

Screen printing - rotary. The design is first applied to a cylinder meshed screen, then transferred to fabrics by pushing the dye through the screen cylinder using a squeegee as it rolls over the fabric. **Rotary screen printing** is the fastest form of printing and is very versatile as it can be used on any type of fabric. media type="custom" key="23813846"

=Stencilling = Stencilling is a relatively simple method of adding a pattern to a fabric, by cutting out a design using stiff paper, card or plastic, then paint is applied with a stiff brush or sponge, the stencil is removed to reveal the pattern. Several stencils may be used to build up a complex design or the stencil can be used repeatedly to create a repeat pattern. CAD CAM can be used to design and cut stencils out of plastic or even sticky back vinyl - the advantage of this that the stencil has direct contact with the fabric and there fore reduces the problem of positioning and movement whilst applying the paint. Other issues with using stencils is seepage/bleed under the stencil. media type="custom" key="27810983"

=Transfer dyes & transfer crayons = = = This method of dyeing is often used in schools and by crafters, it is an easy and clean method of applying colour to fabric and finished textile products. The dyes can be applied to any light coloured fabric, however a better quality of colour is achieved if the fabric is at least 50% synthetic. In preparation for the method of colouration, the fabric has to be pre washed and dried to remove the size (finish) and then ironed. The paints and pens are applied directly to the surface of fabric. Depending on the finish and type of fabric, some thinner and shear fabric allow the pen and paints to bleed. Once the pen or the paints have dried on to the surface they can be fixed through ironing or a heat press. The crayons are applied to paper then transferred to the fabric by ironing this method is known as disperse dye, however the instructions on the fabric crayon pack mentions directly crayoning onto the surface of the fabric then ironing with a piece of paper over the fabric to absorb the wax residue. It is best to test your fabrics and the dyes before you begin your project. For example below: satin and calico, fabr ic crayon with paper transfer, fabric crayon direct, fabric pens, fabric paints. All dyes are permanent and washable however the packages warn of fading after 20 -30 washes.

=Digital printing = [|Digital textile printing] is often referred to as direct-to-garment printing, DTG printing, or digital garment printing. It is a process of printing on textiles and garments using specialized or modified inkjet technology. Inkjet printing on fabric is also possible with an inkjet printer by using fabric sheets with a removable paper backing. Today, major inkjet technology manufacturers can offer specialized products designed for direct printing on textiles, not only for sampling but also for bulk production. The process of printing directly onto the fabrics that have been coated with a special chemical wash. the fabric is steamed to set the dye and then rinsed to remove any finishes before being used. This method is most suitable for natural fibres and fabrics. media type="custom" key="27811545"

=Computer transfer (sublimation) printing = Sublimation printing can be easily carried out in the school with the specialist printers which carry sublimation inks, and the heat presses. The first video below shows how whole t-shirts can be printed. The most important element of sublimation printing is that the sublimation ink bonds with the molecules of the synthetic fibres as it is heated. This process does not work on natural fibres. This involves printing the design directly onto a specialist paper. The designs are then transferred to the fabric using either heated rollers for mass-produced designs, or a heat press for small scale designs. media type="custom" key="27811565"

=Direct printing = A printing paste is applied directly to the fabric, in which colourants containing dyes, thickeners, and the mordants or substances necessary for fixing the colour on the cloth are printed in the desired pattern. media type="custom" key="27811539"

=Introduction to Dyeing = Colour can be added to fabrics by dipping, immersing or painting the fabric with dye. Dye can be added at the fabric (piece dyeing) or at the fibre (stock dying) and yarn stage (yarn dying). The colour is often called the pigment and is **fixed** once applied. Chemicals such as **mordant** or salt can be used to **fix** the dyes or heat. this helps prevent the colours running and fading when the product is washed or cleaned. <span style="color: #000000; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">To apply dye or colour to fabric or textile products effectively you must first consider the following: <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; line-height: 1.5;">At school we use Dylon dye as pictured below - this is a hot water dye and comes in a range of colours. ( www.ias-hk.com) media type="custom" key="27813059"
 * <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">the type of fabric or fibres, natural or regenerated fibres tend to take dye better than synthetic fibres
 * <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">the type of dye used, chemical or natural, natural dyes for example fade easily in sunlight and therefore not suitable for furnishings
 * <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">the point at which the dye should be applied during the manufacture of textile products
 * <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">testing of dyes, quality of dye application, consistency in production, uniform application and colour consistency.

<span style="color: #000000; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The video here gives you some ideas about dying, and preparation and finishing techniques: <span style="color: #000000; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">media type="custom" key="23814148"

=<span style="color: #289a9a; font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Dyeing and resist techniques = The process of dyeing is normally carried out in three stage:
 * 1) Cleaning of the fibres/fabrics to remove oils or any other foreign objects that might stop the dye from being applied to the product: this is done to ensure that the dyes work well on the fibres/fabrics and to ensure that no faults will occur.
 * 2) The dyeing process where the textiles and the dye are put together, this may take a few minutes or some hours, depending on the fibre type being dyed.
 * 3) The finishing process in which the excess dye is removed from the product and is scoured with soaps and detergents. This is an important part of the dyeing process, as there are many toxic chemicals used in the commercial and home dyes which could cause skin irritations, Also if the excess is not thoroughly washed out streaking or colour loss may occur quickly in the final products.

=<span style="color: #289a9a; font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Pigment dyeing = Pigment dyeing is not really "dyeing" in it's truest form because the pigments stick on the fabric with the help of binders.. Pigments are insoluble in water. They exist in the form of finely ground molecules, milled for garment dyeing purposes into a paste. When anionic dispersing agents are added, a slightly negative charge is present, thus the foundation for pigment dyeing is born. When a positively charged cationic pre-treat is added to the fibre a magnetic bond is formed. The process is complete when a cationic binder is added to "lock" the pigment into place.In pigment dyeing no actual chemical reaction takes place between the dye and the fabric. Read more: pigment-dyeing-process media type="custom" key="27812051"

=<span style="color: #289a9a; font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Natural and vegetable dyeing = Natural dyes are dyes or colourants derived from plants, invertebrates, or minerals. The majority of natural dyes are vegetable dyes from plant sources—roots, berries, bark, leaves, and wood—and other organic sources such as fungi and lichens. Natural dyes <span style="background-color: #ffffff; color: #222222; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 12px;">are usually used with a mordant<span style="background-color: #ffffff; color: #222222; font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 12px;"> to make them "stick" to the fabric, and generally give more muted tones on plant fibres like cotton and rayon, but are brilliant on wools and silks. The following link: diy-natural-dyes-using-vegetables-and-other-pantry-staples gives details of how to use vegetables and spices to create natural dyes. Another method of dyeing naturally using leaves and petals of cut flowers, it is a simple and interesting techniques Follow the instruction on the following link: eco-dyeing-flowers-part-1 eco-dyeing-flowers-part-2-results and the video demonstrates flower pounding as another method of colouring fabrics naturally. media type="custom" key="27813399" =<span style="color: #289a9a; font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Industrial dyeing = In the textiles industry, the dyeing of fabrics is done on a large industrial scale. The dyeing process has to be accurate to ensure that the same colours can be produced again and again. The types of dyeing process used is dependant on the type of fabric and the type of fibres it contains. The production methods used in the textiles and fashion industry to dye products are:
 * yarn dyeing
 * stock dyeing
 * batch dyeing
 * continuous dyeing
 * garment (also known as product) dyeing

Though the video below is an advertising video - it does give you an idea how all the dye for our denim fibres, fabrics and products are created. media type="custom" key="27813087"

=<span style="color: #289a9a; font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Producing patterns with dye = <span style="color: #289a9a; font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">media type="custom" key="23813950"

media type="custom" key="27813079"

=<span style="color: #289a9a; font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Batik = <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">The art of decorating cloth in this way, using wax and dye, has been practised for centuries. In Java, Indonesia, batik is part of an ancient tradition, and some of the finest batik cloth in the world is still made there. The word batik originates from the Javanese "tik" and means to dot. To make a batik, selected areas of the cloth are blocked out by brushing or drawing hot wax over them, and the cloth is then dyed. The parts covered in wax resist the dye and remain the original colour. This process of waxing and dyeing can be repeated to create more elaborate and colourful designs. After the final dyeing the wax is removed and the cloth is ready for wearing or showing. (www.batikguild.org.uk) media type="custom" key="27813097" media type="custom" key="27813099" Glue resist batik see the following website for instructions to use PVA as a resist gluebatik

=<span style="color: #289a9a; font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Tie dye = Tie dying is a process in which areas of the fabric are tied off with twine, string, or elastic bands firmly in a range of designs as shown below. For some more details about how to create these examples use the link to the following site: @http://craftbits.com/project/tie-dye-effects/ The fabric is then dyed and rinsed with the tied areas resisting the dye and remaining the original colour. Each design is unique even if tied off in the same way they will never be identical. The fabric can be wound, twisted, folded, and pleated, objects such as buttons, bottle lids etc. can be bound into the fabric with the twine, equally clips and pegs can be used to fix and hold the fabric in its folded state.

=<span style="color: #289a9a; font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Tritik = This techniques is achieved by stitching using a running stitch with a strong thread the outline pattern that you desire. Then pull the thread so that it thread is gathered tightly to give the best effect, tie off by stitching a couple of stitches then knot. Soak the fabric in the dye, then leave to dry out completely before removing the thread and ironing flat. The video below demonstrates this - however it does describe it as stitched Shibori. <span style="color: #289a9a; font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">media type="custom" key="27813045"

=<span style="color: #289a9a; font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Shibori = This is a folding process and originates in Japan, where the dye (most often indigo is used for this technique) is added to the folded fabric, which is then steamed to set the dye. Unfolding the fabric will reveal a sculptured effect. T media type="custom" key="27813037" media type="custom" key="27813039"

=<span style="color: #289a9a; font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Marbling = This process requires a large container filled with a base liquid which will not react with the fabric paint or dye, but instead will allow the colourant to sit on the surface of the liquid and with tools it can be manipulated into swirls etc. The flat fabric is then laid on top of the liquid and the dye is transferred capturing the marbling pattern, peel off the fabric and allow to dry flat, fix the colourant according to manufacturers instructions. This process can be repeated two or three times before it becomes to faint and the base liquid and colourant need to be replaced. The second video introduces a marbling technique using shaving foam instead of liquid. media type="custom" key="27813385" media type="custom" key="27813393"

=<span style="color: #289a9a; font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Links & Resources = media type="custom" key="27811901"